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Artisan’s Guide — How to Choose and Care for Sterling Silver Cloisonné
A closer look at lacquer, shell inlay, and the slow discipline that gives these objects their depth.
The Integrity of Hand-Fired Enamel
Authentic cloisonné enamel is not a painted finish; it is a glass-like substance fired at extreme temperatures. On sterling silver, this process requires precise timing to prevent the metal from warping while ensuring the enamel melts into a smooth, translucent surface.
When choosing a piece, look for the depth of color. Hand-fired enamel has an internal glow that ‘cold enamel’ or resin alternatives cannot replicate. The silver wires (cloisons) should be flush with the surface, creating a seamless landscape of color and metal.
Judging the Wirework (Cloisons)
The wires are the skeleton of the design. In high-quality artisan pieces, these wires are shaped by hand to create intricate patterns. They should be distinct and clean, separating the different colored enamels without bleeding or overlapping.
Check the symmetry and the complexity of the cells. Fine wirework is a sign of a master craftsman who has spent years perfecting the tension and placement of silver threads.
Care: Preserving the Glass Surface
Because enamel is essentially a form of glass, it is durable but can be sensitive to sharp impacts. It is best to store cloisonné pieces in a padded box, away from harder gemstones that might scratch the surface.
Cleaning should be gentle. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners or harsh chemicals which might affect the silver-enamel bond. A soft, damp cloth is usually all that is needed to maintain the luster of both the silver and the fire-colored glass.